Peru, Lima

This entry covers 30 to 31 October

Well i left you all a couple of quarts down the hatch and on the verge of taking on whatever nightlife Miraflores had to offer. Headed into the darkness with Chad (tatoo man) and the 2 Irish mofos. It was late already as we had to finish watching 8 Mile (in Spanish!). The 1st spot was closing although had serious potensh (memory bank for another night). Chad then took us to Tasca's where the handshake and hug was the order of the evening in order to pass the bouncers. The place was raging inside...99% locals jamming to local tracks made me think we were somewhat outsiders in this place so decided to restrain and observe their moves while sipping on a seriously potent mix of something and coke. The walk home was interesting to say the least...half pint hookers followed us like a pack of hyenas for at least 200m until they realised that Chad wasn't willing to cheat on one of his many local girlfriends and the Irish lads couldn't converse...try getting a spanish peruvian to understand galic!

I had a marathon breakfast (breadrolls, strawb jam, a banana and tea) with Steve and Isabelle (also from Aus). Was lekker to meet some dudes from a similar background. Mick (the boozer/other) awoke up after a solid 20 hour hibernation and looked worse than before! His claim to fame...4 days without sleep...whatever rocks your boat buddy!

Jumped onto the bus (I'm guessing manufactured in the early 60's) bound for Central Lima. The gearstick bobbed around a couple feet below the busdriver's right knee which certainly didn't help the poor man's hunched posture. I was intrigued by the little doorman's antics, hanging out the door (irrespective of whether it was stationary) shouting directions to all and sundry. The trip took about 45 minutes only because we stopped every 30 yards to pick up people, exhaust fumes, beggars and entrepreneurs trying to sell everything from ince creams to chocolates to sweets.

Finally reached Plaza de Armes and was blown away by the monstrocity of the buildings. La Cathedral de Lima was magnificent and Hermy (my frog mascot) made some awesome appearances. I hit numerous innocent bystanders with "Puedo sacar uno foto" (please can I take a foto) handing them my little plastic frog to pose with! I met Sergio in front of Monestario de San Francisco. He was an artist from Cusco and an interesting little man with such a friendly disposition. I've realised that while the locals are oober hospitable, they're also entrepreneurs looking for an angle out of most situations. Peter (also from Cusco) introduced himself in Plaza de San Martin. He took me to Amull's Sports Bar where we sunk a couple of quarts and chatting about our experiences to date (mostly lost in translation) only to find out that the beers were on me! I decided it was worth it in the end as I met Steve from Canada who was having coffee at the table next to ours and Milos (the owner of the restaurant)...an ex Yugoslavian soccer international who had decorated the place with shirts and photo's from his haydays (including one of Maradonna's original shirts!). I asked both these men what their interested in Peru were and it turned out that both had married lcoal Peruvian lasses! You're probably thinking, what on earth could draw a Canadian and an international soccer legend to such women and both concluded that they have great hearts, respect their men and are loyal. While not breaking any record books on the height department (around 4ft 5 inches), they're also surprisingly good looking. I ended up chatting to Flor (one of the waitresses) and took her number with the intention of hooking up later that evening assuming someone in the backpackers would have a cell phone to lend for a couple sms'...no such luck...Chad lent his to someone and forgot to get it back and Mick's was stolen a week ago.

A moment of humour on the bus drive back to Miraflores included a little Peruvian boy (ok, they're all pretty small human beings!) falling asleep in my lap!

Back at the backpackers, I ended up introducing the legendary cardgame, Shithead, to Maria and Thea (from Denmark). I was so buggered from a long day in the city that decided to calkl it a day and save myself for Halloween. Edken (the dude who runs the backpackers) flipped thru the local newspaper and found some hotspots to explore in Barancas this evening...nice.

I'm off to chack out the pyramid ruins called Huaca Puellama and Mercado del Indies (a local market) to test my Spanish bargaining skills. Also going to pop into Explore Bicycle Rentals to see if it's possible to ride to Pachacamas and the Southern Beaches (Punte Hermora, San Bartola and Punte Recas).

Wish me luck

Raffa

Other words for the day..."Eres muy bonitas" (you are very beautiful)

Brazil, Sao Paulo --> Peru, Lima

Ola a gente

This entry covers 28 to 29 October although it feels like I've been out here for days already.

Joburg >> Sao Paulo

Jumped onto flight SAA 222 with more foreigners than anticipated...a brazillain 3 year old behind me, a midget 2 down from my right and an oober experienced traveller in front of me. With the sounds of Toto Africa ringing thru the ipod and cruising at 750km/hr @ 11,000m above sea level I felt ready to "chase the sun". I was so excited that my Lynis blanket was downgraded to a oversized bib to accomodate the lamb and rice debris I was casting like seeds in a field across not only my lap, but also the hobbit's.

Memorable moments from the flight include the astonishing confidence shown by the experienced traveller who proceeded to order absolutely nothing from the "set" menu, a "big" cup of tea and extra fries!. I also enjoyed the onboard yoga instructer who flashed onto the screen every couple of minutes to remind all and sundry to keep stretching. This cartoon character has all the moves...with eyes bulging and hands clenching the arm rests he proceeded to demonstrate an amazing range of recommended exercises...I kept trying to imagine how absurd it would have been if everyone had signed up for his classes!

I must admit that as we neared the end of the 10 hour plus flight that the breathing, eating, sleeping and blinking patterns became decided more rapid in anticipation not having any idea of where I was going to sleep in one of the top 5 largest cities in the world...Sao Paulo. Of course, my exceptionally broken Spanish lead me to the tourist desk where I was introduced to Eduado who helped me to an overnight stay in Hotel Panaby (Guarulhas). When they say the world is a small place, you'd better believe it as I ended up jamming with 2 South Africans on the bus ride to the hotel who has spent the last 2 weeks representing the green and gold spearfishing in Venezuella.

The lights were out at 9pm after a tank of a day chasing the sun (19,5 hours in total) . The brief stay in the hotel was just what I needed...easing into the world of chilledness with Hermy (my toer mascott) in the other single. An interesting quirk of the Brazillion world include the 1st floor being #2 in the lift. I was in 2 minds whether to hit the buffet breakfast this morning although decided that carbo loading was a better option than avoiding stretching the stomach (in anticipation of the lean days ahead)! Mom, you'll be oober proud that I decided to hit the vacuum packed backpack for the 2nd flight in a row to avoid the dodgy mofos trying to get me into something similar to the 2nd series of Prison Break. The flight to Lima was pretty harmless barring the (once again) stale breadrolls and a pie looking thing that resembled a mix between a quish and tasteless jelly. I'm up for most things but pushed this puppy aside and was quite relieved when the dude next to me did the same!

Landed in somewhat dusty and dry Lima. Confirmed my theory that humans are like sheep. As soon as those seat buckle lights go out, everybody stands to attention and WAITS.....and waits....most hunched under the overhead cabin above their heads...making small talk with some random punter on his/her left/right...thighs shaking under the somewhat paranormal disposition for at least 5 minutes until the doors finally open.

ANYWAYS!, ended up wandering around the airport looking for a place toexchange money and while scrounging through my backpack, Christof from France tapped me on the shoulder asking whether I'd like to share a cab into Lima....he forgot to inform me that Carlos did not possess an official taxi licence and huis driving skills certainly backed this up. South African taxis have nothing on Carlos. Review mirrors are considered bling, stop street: yields and blind spots a challenge! The unofficial route to Miraflores via the shale cliffs overlooking the coastline was incredible. We ended up taking every back route under the Lima sun to get the Lonely Planet's recommended backpacker...needles to say, we got within 3 kms of our target before hitting a dead end outside the Lion Backpackers which seemed pretty decent, so decided to sign in (I think there may be an informal arrangement going on between Carlos and Edken, the dude who runs the Lion Backpacker). This spot is pretty mean...hot showers, good location, cheap and it has internet!

Met some interesting charcters already:
Edken: the Peruvian manager who serves free Pisco Sours at 8 pm sharp
Psycho Miko: surfer/boozer from the Gold Coast....he's been passed out since 2pm this arvie! His story: waiting for money/his Belgian girlfriend (with loads of money) to arrive.
Chad: tattoos strewn across his arms and neck...American come European with $20 dollars in his account. He gave me a lesson on how to avoid getting electrocuted in the showers so a good dude! Jorges and Thommy are both out from Ecuador on a chef's conferenceBryan (the machanic) and some other punter (the labourer) have made their way from Mexico and are into Galic Football. They're also getting their teeth fixed tomorrow as its cheaper than getting it done in Ireland! Greg and Layla have been living the dream since July and are heading south tomorrow.

Spent the afternoon exploring the shoreline (Larco) with Maclain, Mary Bruce and Lara (recent graduates from the US).

Thats all for now folks

Until next time
Rafers

Testing 1, 2

Just a sneaky test before I embark on torrrr.